Monday, January 31, 2011

Blood Orange Season and More on Wine and Food

As you can see from the lovely photo, we've had a crop of blood oranges! Not actually bloody, they are streaked red in sections and make a lovely pink colored tart juice; when we first moved to Rome and the children saw pink juice, they were skeptical. But time - and the addition of sugar to store bought juice - has won them over and they are now complete fans.

Yes, in Italy they add sugar to fruit juice. Every kind. It is very rare to find juice that does not have sugar added, which was one of the main reasons I squeezed two dozen oranges for breakfast last Sunday. The other reason is that our tree has a very healthy crop of oranges and we just can't eat them fast enough.

But the juice is very good - would I even bother squeezing it with that tiny juicer if it weren't? Unfortunately, the large juicer, a gift from Great Aunt Ada many years ago, went missing in one of our many moves.

We did discover another local market two weeks ago. One of the women who works with Bill, as well as the Italian agriculture board, suggested the Campagna Amica market near the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo).

Since it happens to be about four blocks from our place and gives the children the benefit of running through 'the battlefield' as they call it, everyone is happy in the end.

We were all very pleasantly surprised - especially our Helena, who has taken to sleeping until noon on weekends and was thorougly unimpressed by us dragging her out of bed at 11:30 to go shopping, for food of all things! She gets out of bed quicker when I tell her we are going shoe shopping.

Anyway, most of the meat, fish, produce, beer and wine is organic in origin. There are the obligatory flower stalls, as well as honey and jams, but also, by my count, at least five different butchers, one fish seller, half a dozen bean and legume vendors, two stalls featuring pasta and bread each, four featuring olive oil, two featuring wine, one featuring beer, and a dozen or so produce vendors. Add an on-site kitchen where they serve a fresh pasta and sauce of the day with sausage and vegetables (on the day we first went it was fresh potato gnocchi with tomato sauce and grated pecorino, salsicce, and sauteed spinach; all served with fresh bread and wine.)

In fact, the local Novello was so good, that I went back for a second glass. Bill of course snapped a picture, because how often does your wife peruse turnips and herbs while sipping vino? Not too often...

Novello is a local Italian wine, most similar to French Beaujolais. It is mild with a bright acidity and low tannins. It is never aged in barrels, rather it is bottled within weeks of fermentation. It lasts, in Italy, for about three months after the fall harvest, which means Novello season is almost over.

In any case, we were stunned to find the first inexpensive product in Rome: three bottles of water, two cups of wine and an extra full bottle of Novello to take home came in at 5 Euros. Amazing. I can't bread and eggs for that!

However, it leads me to another depressing moment. The industrial corkscrew from Christmas died when removing the plastic cork. So that means we are now on corkscrew 11. Someone suggested I use drywall screws and pliers...can someone ship those?

Our first shopping trolley has also died. Since shopping is either once-a-day or every-other-day here, and we own no car, all our groceries and supplies get hauled in by backpack or, my now deceased old-lady-shopping trolley.

Maybe I'll keep a running total of deceased household items: January 31, 2011. Corkscrews, 11, Shopping Trolley, 1.

An update on the Cusumano wine is also called for. Noa is a blend, which is very common in Europe, but less so in the rest of the world, Americans and Aussies preferring to swill either varietals or Arbor Mist. Noa is part Nero D'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. No wonder I liked it, as two of my favorite grapes are in one lovely bottle.

And our Enoteca owner, seeing how we liked Noa so much, has kindly put aside the last of his cases for us. Yes! He also tried talking us into the Cusumano Nero D'Avola varietal, which at 18 Euros a bottle was steep for a Nero D'Avola. Thankfully I prefer the cheaper Zisola!

Anyone outside of Pennsylvania might be able to find these wines. As for Pennsylvanians, you can always drive to Ohio or Indiana! Darn State liquor board!!!

And on the happiest note of all - The Packers are playing in the Superbowl next weekend. Go Pack!

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Fabulous New Wine, Terror Alerts and Family Matters

I need to start this entry by talking about wine, probably one of the best ways to kick off my somewhat dubious start to a new year.

I had found a really great Sicilian Nero D'Avola called Zisola, created by the Mazzei wine consortium. The 2007 vintage was, up until this past weekend, the best red I had found in Italy. A DOC (Domination of Origin Controlled) wine, it ran about 13 Euros a bottle, which, for a once-a-week splurge, was emminently worth the price -about $18 USD.

It was deep, meaty, oaky with berry flavors that lingered even after I started the second bottle. (That's a joke...)

But on Saturday Bill brought home my new favorite wine: Noa by Cusumano. I usually don't drink wines labled IGT (Indicazione Geographica Tipica).

I usually don't drink IGT wines for a few reasons. First, IGT wines tend to have plastic corks, and I have a problem with losing my corkscrews to synthetics. Second, IGT wines have not, as a whole, been as good as the DOC wines, though they are usually significantly cheaper. But lastly, the majority of IGT wines are less than 2 Euros, which leads me to believe they will rot my liver and become the base for the perfect Molotov cocktail.

However, the Cusumano has changed my opinion on every level: It comes with a REAL cork; it costs a whopping 15 Euros a bottle; and, with a 2006 vintage, it was obviously worth saving instead of lighting and throwing. And those were my opinions before I tasted it.

Smooth, much smoother than the Zisola; so fragrant that my empty glass still smelled of blackberries and dark chocolate; with a rich taste that made me want a second bottle for the rest of the week, the Cusumano was sweet and tart, smooth and oaky, the perfect glass of wine.

You can find it www.cusumano.it, but it will run about $45 a bottle in the USA. However, I can start my Christmas 2011 wish list now...email me for details.

Which leads me to the second part of this entry: my email.

I had been with Verizon for several years. At least, until, I got tenants into my home near Pittsburgh. Then, I had to make arrangements to switch my security service at the house to my tenants' new telephone landline and Verizon 'accidentally' turned off all the services I had with them, including my internet and email accounts.

Note to Verizon, I Hate You!

Note to everyone else, please try to reach me, either by letter or through friends. I tried to remember as many addresses as I could, but it's tough when I've been drinking wine!

I've signed up with the Italian Agriculture and Tourism Board as a Resident International Journalist (Note to Wisconsin...you can make a lot of friends by doing the following...). This means that once a month, they call me and make arrangements to pick me up and take me to a local winery or farm where I can sample food and drink. Then they drive me to a five star restaurant where I can eat and drink the discussed food or drink in a professional setting, with the assumption that I will leave and write to Americans about what I have just eaten or drunk.

Not a bad gig!

It also makes me more appreciative of Europe, when most of the time I thank God to be an American. The one saving grace that Europe has, other than wine, is that it is so much LESS politically correct than the USA.

Take the following terror alert (courtesy of John Cleese) for example:

"The English are feeling the pinch in relation to recent terrorist threats and have therefore raised their security level from “Miffed” to “Peeved.” Soon, though, security levels may be raised yet again to “Irritated” or even “A Bit Cross.”
The English have not been “A Bit Cross” since the blitz in 1940 when tea supplies nearly ran out.
Terrorists have been re-categorised from “Tiresome” to “A Bloody Nuisance.” The last time the British issued a “Bloody Nuisance” warning level was in 1588, when threatened by the Spanish Armada.
The Scots have raised their threat level from “Pissed Off” to “Let’s get the Bastards.” They don’t have any other levels. This is the reason they have been used on the front line of the British army for the last 300 years.
The French government announced yesterday that it has raised its terror alert level from “Run” to “Hide.” The only two higher levels in France are “Collaborate” and “Surrender.” The rise was precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed France’s white flag factory, effectively paralyzing the country’s military capability.
Italy has increased the alert level from “Shout Loudly and Excitedly” to “Elaborate Military Posturing.” Two more levels remain: “Ineffective Combat Operations” and “Change Sides.”
The Germans have increased their alert state from “Disdainful Arrogance” to “Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs.” They also have two higher levels: “Invade a Neighbour” and “Lose.”
Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual; the only threat they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels.
The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so the new Spanish navy can get a really good look at the old Spanish navy.
Australia, meanwhile, has raised its security level from “No worries” to “She’ll be alright, Mate.” Two more escalation levels remain: “Crikey! I think we’ll need to cancel the barbie this weekend!” and “The barbie is canceled.” So far no situation has ever warranted use of the final escalation level.

I do love Europe, sometimes.

However, this brings me to the last bit of this entry. There are days I wish I were home and days I am so glad I can escape.

On January 1, 2011, just an hour after I finished my previous post, I got word that my wonderful cousin, Alison Grace Kasten, was killed in an automobile accident in Tampa, FL. She was only 20 years old.

Details regarding the accident are still unclear: what she was driving and who owned it; whether or not she was following or being followed; she may or may not have been hit by another vehicle that left the scene.

What is clear is that this amazing young woman with so much to live for is gone. She was an international equestrienne champion; a scholar; a friend; and the most down-to-earth young woman I had ever known. She was the wealthiest young person immaginable, with every reason to be a snob, but was the least snobbish person immagination could conjure: she spent her days mucking manure in a horse barn, dressed in sweats, volunteering for the less fortunate and helping everyone she knew. Underestimated by many, she had the most genuine smile, infectious wit, and contagious sense of humor.

I will miss her forever.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Happy New Year! Here's to Tame Adventure in 2011...

The past year has gone by quickly, for the most part. Usually there are days of tedium, marked by frustrations (yes, corkscrews 9 and 10 have come and gone...) followed by a flurry of activity and occasional calm.

I should start by saying that we marked our one year anniversary of arriving in Rome in true historical fashion: we had no idea what we were going to eat for Christmas, as purchasing a ham proved impossible in Rome.

Yes, we could have bought a whole proscuitto and cooked it, but this was a bad idea for several reasons. First, it would entail purchasing an entire pig leg, from haunch to hoof. Like that would ever fit in my oven! Next, we don't eat that much meat, so cooking an entire pig leg would be a massive waste on several levels. And last of all, one entire pig-leg-turned-proscuitto was coming in at around 220 Euros. I don't think anyone likes ham that much!

So Helena and I were off, shopping in Testaccio market, on Christmas Eve. Poor planning, I know! But luck was with us this year: we found a turkey! A whole one, not cut into pieces; and the kindly butcher had even gutted it, removed its head and feet and pulled the pin feathers. Yes!!!

We did get a very odd look from the butcher when I tried to explain (successfully, I might add) that I didn't want it cut up, I wanted the whole turkey: I suppose it just isn't a popular way to prepare Tacchino in Italy.

We couldn't find everything for making the turkey though: In the end, I used a 2 and1/2 inch framing nail to hold the neck cavity closed so the stuffing wouldn't fall out; a shoelace tied the legs together so it would fit in the pan. A nut pick (Thank You Dad!!!) held the rear cavity closed. The Barefoot Contessa, I am not!

However, it marked the first holiday in three years where our family has eaten turkey dinner for both Thanksgiving and Christmas, actually gotten to celebrate both holidays, and we haven't had to travel; it also marked the end of our first year in Rome, a year that has been successful on many levels.

The year has also brought many changes.

Grandma Elsie passed away at the end of March. She was ready to rest and was prepared to leave, though it didn't come easy for any of us who love her.

My step father, Joe Bolin, unexpectedly passed away in December, less than one month after visiting us in Rome. I didn't know him as well as I should and left trying to know him until far too late, which is a very hard lesson to learn. No one was prepared for his passing, and he will be dearly missed.

And lastly, though of less importance than the passing of loved ones, we have found we are going to stay in Italy for at least one more year. Our house will be let until July 2012 and Bill's company has indicated they need him to stay for at least one more year because of the many new projects planned for Italy.

So it's on a somewhat sad note that I make my New Year's 2011 resolutions, knowing that my children and I will miss family and friends back home and meet the challenges of being in a country where (shamefully) we still don't know the language.

I'll post my resolutions now, and hopefully keep to each one: Drink less wine and keep corkscrew 11 going for one whole year; lose 5 pounds and keep it off; learn Italian - enough to talk to strangers and read a newspaper; spend more time with my family and let them know how much I love them while I can.

Love to everyone and Happy New Year!